Monday, September 26, 2011

Life in Eretz Israel...for us!

This morning, I'm looking out at the rain soaked plains of the Ramat Golan (upper Golan, near Mt. Hermon).  The earth is a deep reddish brown color, the area smells of moisture, eucalyptus, fresh apple scents, and occasionally a lavender smell.  Herds of cattle are bellowing and the birds are singing, many birds are singing, seemingly thousands of them.  Israel is on a migratory path between Europe and Africa, so the varieties of birds here are amazing.  We are truly enjoying the peaceful environs of our Kibbutz.  It really is like living in the countryside in other nations.

The eastern sky is just beginning to light up and bathe the tops of the trees in a beautiful orange light, beckoning life to begin again.  And so it does for us too.  I'm up having coffee, my wife is showering, and then I'll say my morning prayers.    We will head off to Ulpan, which consumes most of our days now, with classes, homework, and studying.  The closest supermarket is about 15 minutes from our home, in Katzrin, so we tend to buy provisions after class.  The Kibbutz has a 7-11 style store, but with a very limited selection of goods, so we limit our shopping there.

It would be very difficult not to have a car in the Golan, as everything "is spread out so far and wide" to borrow a "Green Acres" theme line.  We feel fortunate to have a car, so we pick up as many hitchhiking soldiers and locals as we can to share our good fortune.  Yesterday, we picked up a soldier on the way home from class, and it was lightly raining.  We drove him up a steep road to his IDF base situated atop a hill that overlooks the border with Syria.  It was quite fascinating to see, up close, the array of electronic equipment that the IDF deploys on these installations.  There is a similar installation on a very high hill right behind our home, but it is difficult to see much, because it is so high up.  Anyway, we thanked the soldier for his service and wished him  Shana Tova.  As we drove away, we were left with a comforting feeling that G_d provides such young people with the fortitude to protect their fellow Jews from harm's way.

We  feel G_d's hand on all things here, and we are adjusting to that realization, accordingly.  We miss our families in the States, but we also know that we are of benefit to them, here.  Prayer is a powerful tool, when we turn and face G_d.  We wish you all a happy and safe New Year and may you all be inscribed in the Book of Life for the coming year.  Shalom!

Sunday, September 25, 2011

Internet and Google maps on your smartphone!

Hello, sorry for the delay in posting, but as you will find out, it is not an easy thing to get internet service in the "Ramat Golan" (upper Golan Heights).   Occasionally, like right now, our neighbors have a WiFi system turned on, but it is hit and miss when we can log on and use it.  After trying several different options, we chose to buy a USB-cell phone service internet connection "stick".   We had one in the USA, and it worked well for our purposes.

Speaking of cell phone service, I cannot recommend enough that you buy a "smart phone" here and sign up for an internet package so you can use, "GOOGLE MAPS" in Israel.  If you do not know your way around the country and need to find the local government offices, this service is invaluable to people who do not speak fluent Hebrew.  DO NOT buy the cell phone company's GPS service, (for example: Orange GPS) BECAUSE the maps are all in Hebrew, which doesn't do you any good as an English speaker.  You may think it might be fairly easy to follow a map in Hebrew, but when you are stressed by heavy traffic, time constraints, and looking at a small video screen for directions, believe me, it will become very hard to read Hebrew map directions, unless you are completely fluent.

Also, REMEMBER to ask the salesperson, when you buy your phone, how to retrieve your voicemail.  The directions are in Hebrew on the phone menu and "she" speaks quite rapidly, so there is no understanding how to do it after you leave the cell phone store.

I know we weren't the only ones who could not retrieve our messages, as some of our Ulpan classmates asked the "Morah"-female teacher, how to get their phone messages.

Friday, September 16, 2011

Shabbat Shalom!

Although we have been in Israel for 15 days now, this will be our first Shabbat in our new rental home in En Zivan.  We are excited to be lighting the candles and celebrating Shabbat here.  We had spent Shabbat with our friends in Modi'in these past weeks and we enjoyed ourselves immensely, but now it is time for us to begin our Jewish traditions in our new home!  We have had a very busy week with Ulpan and driving lessons, so we are excited for G_d's rest.

Shabbat Shalom!

Wednesday, September 14, 2011

Driver License and the car purchase

First off, if you absolutely need your Israel driver license, be prepared for the process to take anywhere from a week to a month.  To begin, you have to get the license form from an approved vendor, then take it to an optometrist, then you must have signed up for and processed the paperwork at your chosen health care provider, so you make an appointment to see a Doctor.  After the Doctor gives you a physical, the form is stamped by the Doctor for you to take to the "DMV"-aka Misrad Rishui.  We went to the "DMV" offices 4 different times, and did not know that  that Olim can only convert their American licenses to Israeli licenses at certain offices, which in our case would have to be in Haifa!  Next, we received the address of the "DMV" in Haifa and tried to find it without the help of a GPS.  Big, BIG! mistake.  We asked several folks for directions to the office and ended driving in circles for a couple of hours, until we got the bright idea of having a taxi driver lead us to the office.  But by then the office was closed for Olim conversions.
Note that the "DMV" offices have late afternoon hours BUT Olim cannot convert their licenses in the afternoon only during the morning hours.  So while the Aliyah websites list afternoon hours, I'd recommend going in the morning.

Now, every driving instructor that we've contacted says that their lessons are booked up, due to the summertime Aliyah immigrations.  Some say we will have to wait 3 weeks for lessons. This is problematic because we have a down payment on a car and need to finish buying it before a price increase goes into effect for the next model year.

I'll update you on our progress.

Update: 25Sept.11

Well we found a driving instructor through the "Go North" NBN coordinator.  Mr. E. Shalev was our instructor, out of Tiberias.  We cannot say enough good things about this fine man and his patience for English "only" students.  After 3 lessons a piece, he scheduled us for the all important driving test at the Misrad Rishui, (Israeli DMV).  There are many differences in the driving here, so don't feel bad if it takes you 2-3 lessons to catch on like a local.  I am pleased to report that my wife and I passed the driving tests and we received our paper licenses from our instructor, a day later.  Mr. Shalev even invited us to his home, to give us the licenses and "celebrate" over some cold drinks!  NOW THAT is service with a smile!  Seriously, we feel as if our instructor is now a friend that we can rely on for guidance and support here in Israel.  Baruch H''.

A few tips.  Take your lessons from an instructor in the town that the "DMV" testing office is located in so your instructor can show you the "usual" routes that the official examiner may have you drive.  The experience beforehand is invaluable.  We saw students taking lessons in the Golan, and believe me, the driving in a crowded, ancient city like Tiberias, is nothing like driving the country roads in the Golan Heights.  Secondly, be prepared to eat some crow, even if you've been driving for "40 years" like my wife claimed, even that was a slight exaggeration, at her tender young age!  The instructor will want you to drive VERY slow and VERY deliberately, so that you don't cut corners, or lines, as it were.  BECAUSE, if you do that in the test, you'll fail.  Failing the test costs a lot of money and time.  And besides, you only get 2 chances at the test, so you might as well do it right the first time, (If you fail the driving test twice, you have to take the driving test again after many lessons and a written exam!  YOU don't want to go there!).  Be prepared to go to the Israel Post Office twice during and after the process of getting your license.  You have to pay for the test there and then get your paper license "stamped" after you pay another fee to the Post Office upon receiving the license.  Approx. one month from now we should get our "credit card" style licenses in the mail, complete with our pictures.

On the car front, we've decided to go with a new Toyota Space Verso.  This process involves paying the entire purchase price and taxes for the car up front.  Then you have to hand over your US passport, Israeli driver license, and US driver license to the car dealer.  They send these original documents to the Israeli Customs Officials, who check them over and decide if you are eligible for the Oleh tax discount on the car.  IF they approve, then you get the documents back several days, to a week later.  AFTER that, your car is released from the port, sent to the dealership, prepared, and you get the car about 14 days after you have paid for it in full. 

(Update: 27/09/11- As promised, our documents were returned, safe and sound, by the dealership. The car delivery date is still up in the air, due to the Holidays, here).

Well we are off to a Rosh HaShana celebration in our Kibbutz, so Shalom ya all for now! ( A little self-deprecating humor- my accent makes my spoken Hebrew almost unintelligible to Israelis!).

Car Update: 05/10/11-
Today we picked up our new Toyota Space Verso.  It was ready on time and it was in perfect condition!  The sales folks explained the workings of the car, gave us a bottle of wine, and we were off to fight the traffic back to the Golan.  We are very happy with this car.  Its gets great gas mileage, and it should only get better as the engine breaks in.  We decided to go with AIG insurance here, as our friends said it was the lowest priced car insurance they had found.  For anyone over 40 to be fully covered when driving our car, it was about $1,300USD which is about $400USD more a year than in the states.  Not bad, considering....

Ulpan

We have started our ULPAN Hebrew language course, in the Katzrin community center.  Our class consists of several Russian Jews, who have lived in Israel for a few years, another couple from Los Angeles who live in the lower Golan, an Australian Jew, an Argentinian Jew, and a woman from Columbia who married an Israeli.  Quite a cosmopolitan class, I'd say!
Contrary to what some websites tell you about Ulpan, this course expects that you already know the modern Hebrew cursive writing.  Nothing is done in block letters, like you read in prayer books and in the Torah.  Had we known that, we would have had that down before we immigrated.  Oh well.  Hope this serves as a warning to others to be prepared.  The classes are fast paced and quite overwhelming, so anything you can do to prepare beforehand, would be of great benefit.  I am blessed with a smart spouse who has studied Hebrew for a few years, so she is carrying me along.
I'll report back after a few weeks on our progress. 
(UPDATE: 27/09/11)
We have completed two weeks of Ulpan and received a 6 page take home test to complete during 2 days off.  The teachers mean business here, and there is no slacking off.  The test was difficult and I probably received a "C" grade on the test, while my wife certainly received an "A" on her test.  I quipped with the teacher that at least she knew I did not "copy" off my wife's test papers.  Little consolation for me though.  I have had a hard time because I did not know the "cursive" Hebrew writing before I started the class.  Also, many folks in the class have lived in Israel for some time, while I'm "fresh off the boat."  Also, for whatever reason, I have a hard time pronouncing words correctly, while most folks in the class do well with the pronunciation.  Oh well, I'm trying hard and maybe that will pay off in the long run. 

My wife has labeled our home with stickers for the names of common items.  She also makes up quizzes while we drive around the Golan, and elsewhere.  This is helpful, although I know it is stressful on her, as she is trying to learn and keep up too, all the while dragging me along.  I pray that I am not slowing her progress, because I truly need her help to persevere.  She is a great help and the love of my life!

Sunday, September 11, 2011

9/11-Anniversary

A very solemn day for all Americans, and for those of us who watched the horrific scenes that morning, we will certainly never forget that radical islam is bent on murdering Americans and destroying western democracy.  Many people in our circle of acquaintances, including us, were profoundly affected by this murderous massacre.  It changed the way we led our lives, conducted business, and viewed the world.  And many of our friends and adult children suddenly had to fight the war against terror.  God Bless them all for their service and sacrifice.  And may the memories of those who lost their lives on 9/11 endure as a blessing to us all.

Thursday, September 8, 2011

Moving into our rental home in Israel!

After spending a wonderful Shabbat with our friends in Modi’in, we drove to the local shopping center and bought a few provisions, before heading North to our new rental home, in the Golan.  While shopping, we stopped in an appliance store and looked at the refrigerators, assuming that we would need one right away for our new home.

Appliances:
In the large cities, the stores have a wonderful selection of refrigerators, and the most reliable ones are made by the Japanese companies, Samsung, LG, Sanyo, etc.  A large Samsung refrigerator, in brushed steel finish, was about $1300 USD. It was bigger than our GE refrigerator in the states and it had an ice cube maker. After reading many suggestions about bringing appliances, if you don’t want to bother with trying to find 220v stuff in the USA, I’d suggest that you shop in Israel for items like this, the prices aren’t that much different.  And buying the appliance here insures you have a valid warranty with repair options.  Note that the ovens, and washer and dryers seem to be the noteable exceptions here.  They are NOT the same size as comparable USA style items.  They are smaller and less efficient.


We continued onto the new “toll road” Hwy. 6 in Israel that runs from the hi-tech park of Haifa in the North down to the Beer-sheva area in the South.  This road is very modern and the usual speeds approach 80 mph in the fast lane, so be prepared for an autobahn style experience, where there are huge commerical trucks traveling at 50mph in the slow lane and impatient car drivers traveling 30 mph faster in the left lane(s).  It is by far the quickest route to the North.  We have taken the coastal routes, and they are much slower due to signals and a high volume of traffic.  Highway 6 is interesting for new citizens to drive, because it passes through the main Israeli Arab areas of the country.  We realized how large the Arab population is in Israel, and how modern their cities and infrastructure are in those areas.  Of course we realized that the biased media always portrays the Arabs as downtrodden and economically disadvantaged here.  Not so, my fellow T.V. generation Americans.  Contrary to what “they” tell you, the majority of the Arab population’s living conditions rival the Jewish cities.   Enough said.

After getting off the toll road, getting to the Golan requires carefully negotiating several different two lane mountain style roads.  There is not one straight path to the Golan.  We have explored many different routes, so there are choices, but they all involve twisty roads.  A word of caution.  The center dividing line seems to be only a suggestion in the Golan.  Cars and especially large trucks, tend to stray over the center divider, so DO NOT hug the center of the road.  I have come to learn to drive as close to the right shoulder as practicable.  There are not too many bicyclists or pedestrians on the roads in the North, so it has not been a problem for me to do so.  And it has saved me from many potential “close calls” with meandering opposing vehicles.

Katzrin delight:
We stopped in Katzrin, which is the site of the Regional Council’s offices (read: county seat for us Americans).  There is a wonderful Schwarma/Schnitzel restaurant here, near the Golan museum and Bank Leumi.  Just look for the IDF soldiers congregating outside, and you’ll have the right establishment.  Even the U.N. soldiers drive for miles to eat at this place, it is that good!  We picked up two “foot-long” sandwiches and headed for Moshav En Zivan, where our first home in Israel, awaited us.  On the way, our landlord phoned us and he said he was awaiting our arrival.  I should say that our landlord befriended us on our pilot trip to Israel.  Divine providence put us in touch with this kind man of Irish decent, who also happened to be one of the most politically connected men in the Golan.  He is also a fellow, “Jew by choice” which immediately endeared him to us.  Over the 2 years of preparation to move to Israel, this wonderful man has made it a point to help us and ensure our successful transition.



The great surprise!
We arrived at our newly constructed home, with its new wood patios and windows, to find our landlord putting the finishing touches on our fully stocked kitchen, with refrigerator, stove, tea kettle, toaster and oven!  The local “Welcome Wagon” had baked us brownies, cakes, bread, and pitas!  There were plates of fresh local fruits and vegetables!  Even a couple bottles of wine!  We were absolutely overwhelmed with the graciousness of our new neighbors and friends!  We could not believe our eyes.  Our landlord had purchased completely outfitted the house so that we lacked nothing.  We had a bed, comforter, linens, a new looking leather couch, table, chairs, and even a side tables for the bedroom.

I cannot express how grateful we were to see this outpouring of care and concern for our well fare.  It made the huge uncertainty of this move, so much easier on us.  Talk about the epitome of brotherly love for fellow Jews and making “outsiders” feel welcomed.  This was a magnificent display.  But, I can honestly say, that so far, in our experiences here in Israel, people have gone out of their way to be kind and helpful, once they realized we were Olim!

In the ensuing days, our neighbors came with more provisions and helped us navigate the healthcare and DMV bureaucracies.  They also sat and visited with us, in English, so that we would feel at home!



The Golan experience:
Our financial situation is different from many Olim, in that we are older and do not have to worry about commuting to work each day.  But, if you can afford it or have agricultural experience, I’d suggest taking a look at the Golan as a place to settle here in Israel.  We left Modi’in when it was in the high 90’s on Monday.  We arrived in the Golan, En Zivan, and the temp was in the low 80’s.  EVERY afternoon here, a southerly wind blows, that cools the area off rapidly.  This natural air conditioning allows residents to just open their windows and cool the house, no need for A/C, although our house has two of them.  At night, this breeze keeps up and it is down right cold!  We were pleasantly surprised to be using blankets and quilts at night, while enjoying shorts and sandals weather during the day!  Our second day here, real weather blew in and in the evening low clouds passed along the Golan making everything wet with foggy conditions, Baruch H’’!

That’s the good news.  Now for  the hairy news.  Our second night here, the wind was blowing, and I caught movement out of the corner of my eye, as my wife and I talked in bed.  The lights were off, so I thought a leaf was blowing past the sliding glass bedroom door.  BUT when the “leaf” changed direction, I realized it was a critter, AND it was on the wrong side of the glass door, inside with us!  I got up and discovered “it” was the BIGGEST tarantula spider I had ever seen! (I was fascinated with these spiders as a child, so I’ve seen many in the wild and in zoo displays).  It was light colored and had a huge abdomen and thorax.  My wife was even less amused than I was.  I gingerly opened the screen door, and awaited our hairy house guest’s departure.  It crawled outside, into the foggy abyss.  My wife promptly got up and began to stuff magazine pages crumpled into all the unplugged wiring holes in our newly constructed home.

Later the next day, we saw a tortoise in the roadway, and I got out and moved him so that he didn’t get squished by the next car.  We’ve seen foxes, cattle, and have heard jackels howling at night, so you will have to live with the critters if you choose to make the Golan your home.

I do not have internet yet, so I am writing this blog entry on a word document and will post it once “Bezeq” the national phone company, completes our WiFi set up in a few days.

We will start Ulpan next week, the government’s Hebrew training courses.  More on that, later.  Shalom.

Friday, September 2, 2011

Made it to Eretz Israel with a little help from our friends!

Baruch H'' we made it to Eretz Israel, at 0430 hrs today, 02Sept11.  Our 200lbs. of luggage made it too!  We had to take the "long way around".  We went from LAX to SFO, then to FRA (Frankfurt, Germany).  We spent the night, did some sightseeing in town, and took a red-eye flight to Ben Gurion Airport.  We are exhausted, but relieved to be in Israel for the beginning of our lives in THE PROMISED LAND!

As I write this from our friends' home in Modi'in, I am fondly recalling our last Shabbat service at B'nai Israel, in Tustin, CAL.  We were blessed to see many congregational friends that morning and say our goodbyes.  An engaged couple received Rabbi Spitz' blessing and I had the privilege to hold their Grandfather's Tallit, suspended over them as a Chuppah.  After a Bat Mitzveh, Rabbi Spitz also honored my wife and I with a special blessing for traveling to Israel.  I cannot describe what a loving and warm congregation, B'nai Israel was and is for us.  We could not have made the conversion or Aliyah without the guidance and support we found amongst those wonderful people that we are privileged to call friends.

So we have ahead of us, our car purchase, settling up with the shipping company, driving to the Golan and moving into our rental home, and driving lessons.  I'm off to crash on the couch for some shut-eye.  I am content and full of anticipation.  Here we go!


Empty Apartment

So, I'm writing this entry, sitting in a folding camping chair, inside our empty apartment.

Last night, we had pizza and beer by our community pool with 5 members of our family.  It was a poignant last farewell, but we had fun and everyone stayed in good spirits.

The shipping company sent the movers today and they packed all day.  But we did not have a lot of stuff, so they finished early and decided just to take everything with them, instead of coming back tomorrow to load the items.  The moving company did an expert job wrapping and packing our items.  Although we had a lot of our stuff in plastic storage bins, they still took the time to wrap the bins in moving paper and packing tape.  Our furniture was wrapped as well.

We plan on flying out tomorrow sometime, depending on when we can get on a flight. Hurricane Irene caused several flight cancellations and it will be difficult to find seats on any flights this week.

We have wired our rent money to our landlord and he finally received it.  We also placed a deposit on a new Toyota car, via wire transfer.  Neither of the wire transfers went very easy, but it was eventually handled.

We will sleep over at a relative's home tonight, and then off to the airport with our GIANT luggage bags.  We needed 3 months worth of items to make it through until the shipment of our household goods arrives.  We have a total of 3 very large suitcases, one carry-on roller bag, one backpack, and one laptop computer bag.  We have NEVER carried this much luggage on a trip, as we are firm believers in packing light when sightseeing.  But we are moving, so carrying a sherpa load is the way we'll roll on this trip.